Islands Magazine

Islands Magazine interviewed Roger and I in their June 2007 issue. Check out the article "Best Islands to Live On"!

Buena Vista Social Club

Planning to build in the Caribbean? Read this first...

Caribpro Magazine has a great article all expat house builders should commit to memory.
Better Building : Stop the Construction Carnival by James Post tells it like it is. I have heard enough construction nightmare stories to write another book. And do not discount the warning from Mr. Post about contractors who disappear with funds counting on the ineffectual legal system to prevent them suffering real consequences. This happened to a friend of ours.

Another friend found that the inflow to her septic tank ran uphill! Not a pretty picture, is it?

No wonder we want to build our own house.

livingdominica: yep, there are sharks in the construction waters who smell expat blood...

My Biggest Disappointment in Dominica

I am going to share something here that has caused me a huge amount of pain. In fact, I cannot think about this issue without tears coming to my eyes. Truly. I have cried many hours about this.

Dominica will not let me be a nurse here.

I have over 26 years of nursing experience in the U.S. I am licensed in 2 states. My most recent experience was working in intensive care, cardiac catheterization, and hemodialysis. In the U.S. these are skills in high demand. In fact, earlier this year I toyed with the idea of going back to the U.S. to work some and we had to quit answering the telephone. We screened calls with the answering machine because the number of hospitals calling in response to my emails of inquiry became burdensome. I never dreamed when I moved here that Dominica would not want me.

Nursing has been a big part of my life. It is who I am. It is how I see myself. I suppose that is understandable since I have spent a majority of my life as a nurse. In fact, I find myself with a bit of a midlife identity crisis now. Who am I, if I am not a nurse? I know I wrote the ebook about our move to the island, but I have not devoted my life to writing the way I did to nursing. Writing is not my self esteem. It is not my identity. It is not my love the way nursing has been.

So, the reality is that if I want to do the work I love, I must leave my home on this island. I must leave my spouse, (and after being married over 30 years, I don't think I can manage without Mr. Wizard at my side). I would also have to leave the place of my residency and where I plan to be a citizen. I would have to leave my home. It is a terrible choice and I don't think I can do this.

So my career is over. My hands are empty. I will never again know the satisfaction of nursing the ill, or helping to save a life. I will never again be a participant in the miracle of modern medicine. I am grieving. And the skills I worked so very hard to master are fading away, unwanted and unused.

Dominica, you ask too much of me. You have taken too much from me. There is an emptiness in my heart that even the beauty of this island cannot fill. I used to know who I am. I don't know any longer.

livingdominica: I wrote the above in a fit of angst. I think the grief I have felt over this issue embodies the necessary grief all expats experience. Moving to a new country is HARD, and all of the difficulty gets tied up in the grieving of my career. I will get over this. I HAVE to get over it since Mr. Wizard proclaims he will never leave this island. But no, I do not want to hear you preening about your lovely successes working here....at least right now.

Expats and Their Expets : Expatriating to the Caribbean with Your Pet

Chester aka "Not Worth Much"
Want to escape to the Caribbean AND take your beloved dog, cat or turtle?

This usually can be done, but nothing is easy when you are dealing with island life. Be prepared for a challenge!

Unfortunately, there is no uniformity of pet policies between the island nations of the Caribbean. Some allow pets in as long as they have documentation of shots. Others, like Jamaica, only accept animals born and raised in the U.K. Even guide dogs on Jamaica must be U.K. dogs!

EACH ISLAND HAS ITS OWN RULES AND REQUIREMENTS

Each island has its own rules and requirements, some more stringent than others.

It is important to check directly with the government of the country you plan to enter before taking a pet with you. Policies can change- an unpleasant surprise might await if you fail to do the necessary homework! Proper documentation of your pet’s health history and vaccination record must be on the forms that country requires. Island bureaucrats really like their forms.

That being said, it is not always the island government that messes with your buddy’s immigration plans.

When I planned to move to Dominica with my husband and Chester the Pug, I assumed we should be able to take a dog with us when we fly, right?

After all, my brother had flown his Poodle all over the world with him. But no, not a Puggie in the tropics.

No airline would take our “free” rescued dog from Puerto Rico to Dominica. They have rules about snub nose dogs and ambient temperatures. Some Caribbean airlines do not carry animals at all, no matter the temperature.

This policy is probably a sound one since most airlines do not air condition their cargo holds. Animals are thrown in with luggage and handled by baggage handlers on most airlines.

They can be left sweltering on the tarmac when delays occur: Not pet friendly environments. And Pug dogs are known to be easily stressed by heat.

CONTINENTAL AIRLINES HAS CARVED OUT A NICHE CATERING TO PET LOVERS.

Continental Airlines has carved out a niche catering to pet lovers. Hiring designated handlers for their living cargo, the animals are not left unattended. Plus, they have special areas that are climate controlled! So, we had no concern flying Continental with our pooch as far as Puerto Rico. But Continental didn’t fly into Dominica.

For a free dog, “Chesta” (as he is called by island folk) cost us a lot when we had to charter a plane to get him to the island. Of course, it wasn’t a fancy plane; in fact it was a relic from some earlier aviation era. Still, chartering a plane seemed mighty fancy to our Midwestern sensibilities.

We discussed leaving our boy behind but realized that amid such life upheaval we really needed the comfort of having our pet with us. Also, because he looks very different from island dogs, our furry friend has made it easy for us to meet and chat with people everywhere we go.

Children often recognize him as Frank from the movie “Men in Black”. One child shyly approached us, “Can he talk like the dog in the movie?” We still chuckle about this, and these experiences make us glad we brought Mr. Pug.

One advantage of using a charter was that it allowed us to bring a lot of extra luggage to the island, which was handy since we were making a permanent move.

When we landed on Dominica, the customs man looked at “Chesta” and remarked, “He’s not worth much”.

We did not have to pay duty on our expensive free dog. This may not be the case for you, if your beastie looks more valuable than ours.

Dominica requires pets entering to have complete health and vaccination documentation prior to entry. Our vet at home coordinated with the veterinarians on the island to make sure Chester's "papers" for entry were in order. We felt lucky that Dominica does not require immigrant critters with proper documentation to be quarantined. Some Caribbean nations will place your companion in a tropical Ellis Island for up to six months (at your expense). I am very grateful I never had to visit my best friend in doggie jail.

SADLY PET IMMIGRATION DOESN'T ALWAYS WORK OUT

I have an expat friend from Switzerland who wanted to move her turtle with her to Dominica. She was given her pet as a small child and when, in her fifties, she planned to retire in Dominica she wanted her turtle to retire with her.

Checking with all the airlines, none would accept such an exotic pet and she had to leave her life-long friend behind in Switzerland. There is still grief when she speaks of her old buddy.

Be aware that the usual pet products you buy at home may not be available on your island.
Pet emigration and pet immigration

We brought a years supply of heartworm and flea and tick prevention, and have ordered replacements from up North as it runs out. Fleas, ticks and mosquitoes abound in the tropics, so be sure to bring prevention for your pets.

After struggling to find a commercial food Chesta would eat, he now eats a homemade diet, which is probably better for him than store bought products anyway. I know he likes it better. And it is less expensive to feed him lovely chicken, or fresh tuna, and rice than to ship in Science Diet.

SO BE PREPARED TO RESEARCH IN DEPTH

So, be prepared to research in depth about your island’s animal import policies (you can start with our handy links).

But also check carefully the rules of the carrier you plan to use to move your pet. We found different airline employees have different answers to the same question. Finding the “final answer” may take considerable time, so start early in your planning to move with your pets.

In spite of all the hassles, I am very glad we brought our beast with us. He is a link to our old life, and a joy in our new Caribbean Life! Expat life would not be the same without our Expet.

Chester and I hope to see you “down island” with us soon.

In order to help you in your research I have set out below some references that may help you with your research.



IMMIGRATION of pets BARBADOS
Embassy of Barbados
(202) 939-9200
2144 Wyoming Ave., NW
Washington, DC 20008
The following guidelines must be followed when importing any animal into Barbados:
• An import permit must be obtained from the Chief Veterinary Officer before the importation of all animals, reptiles and birds.
• A Veterinary Officer must examine the animal before it is allowed to leave the customs area.
• Dogs and cats must be free of any communicable disease. These animals may be imported by permit directly from the UK, Ireland, Jamaica, St.Kitts - Nevis, Antigua, St.Lucia and St.Vincent.
• Cats and dogs originating from all other countries must undergo 6 months quarantine in Britain after which time an import permit can be secured.
• For further inquiries, contact Veterinary Services at

Tel: (246) 427-5073 or Fax: (246) 420-8444 .


Immigration of pets BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS
Embassy of BVI
3100 Massachusetts Ave, NW
Washington, DC 20008
(202) 588-6500
Fax: (202) 588-7870

Pets entering the BVI are subject to the same restrictions and applicable six-month quarantine period as those pets entering the U.K.
Pets will not be admitted without prior clearance. For regulations on pets entering the Territory, write well in advance to the Chief Agricultural Officer, Road Town, Tortola, B.V.I., tel: (284) 495-2451 or call the Humane Society of the B.V.I, tel: (284) 494-2284.


Immigration of pets CAYMAN ISLANDS
Domestic pets entering Cuba must have a full set of vaccinations as defined by your veterinarian. The rabies vaccine is especially recommended, as are shots for distemper and hepatitis. All pets entering Cuba must have a certificate of good health signed by a veterinarian and dated within 10 days of the animal’s arrival in Cuba. It is not necessary that a State official sign the certificate. Your veterinarian’s signature is sufficient. Upon arrival in Cuba, a Cuban veterinarian at the airport will certify that your pet has received the proper vaccinations and that you have a health certificate. Cuba imposes a 15-day at-home quarantine on all arriving pets. Please notify USINT well in advance of any pets that you plan to bring so that proper clearances can be arranged.


Immigration of pets CURACAO
Embassy of Curacao
4200 Linnean Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20008
(202) 244-5300
Fax: (202) 362-3430
Pets will need just a current Veterinarian Health Certificate to gain entrance.


Immigration of pets DOMINICA

Animals may enter the country if accompanied by a valid Veterinary Health Certificate plus an importation permit

Livestock Development Unit
Botanic Gardens
Roseau
Commonwealth of Dominica,
West Indies

Telephone: 767- 266- 3827/3824
Fax: 767- 448- 7999
Email: agrivet4@hotmail.com/forestvet@gmail.com

Immigration of pets DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

Embassy of The Dominican Republic
1715 - 22nd Street, NW
Washington, DC 20008
(202) 332-6280
Fax: (202) 265-8057
Pets must have a health certificate issued and signed by a licensed veterinarian. The certificate shall contain the name and address of the owner, and complete identification of the animal (name, breed, sex, and age). The pet must also have been examined within 30 days prior to departure and found to be free of any infectious diseases. The pet must also have been vaccinated against rabies. The rabies vaccination certificate (which should have been given between 1 month and 12 months prior to entry) should include the date of vaccination, product name and serial number.


Immigration of pets GUADELOPE
Cats and dogs over three months old are admitted temporarily with certificates of origin and good health (or anti-rabies inoculation), issued by a licensed veterinarian from the country of shipment.


Immigration of pets GRENADA
The procedure for the importation of animals in general (dogs and cats in particular) is as follows:
• A Veterinary officer or an officer of the Pest Management Unit of the Ministry of Agriculture must inspect the animals prior to entry.
• Any person intending to import or take these animals from their vessels, whether permanent or temporary, must make an application sufficiently in advance to any of the above agencies.
• Such an application must be accompanied by a copy of a certificate from the last place of residence certifying that the animal has been vaccinated against diseases and is free from illnesses and infections.
Cats and dogs that are imported permanently from outside of the CARICOM region attract a 40% CET (Common External Tariff) and 5% CSC.
Embassy of Grenada
(202) 265-2561
1701 New Hampshire Ave., NW
Washington, DC 20009

Importation of animals is prohibited without an Import Permit. Proper Veterinary Health documents must be produced and the Government Veterinary Officer must be notified of the port of entry and the expected time of arrival.

Immigration of pets JAMAICA
Embassy of Jamaica
(202) 452-0660
Fax: (202) 452-0081
1520 New Hampshire Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20036
(202) 452-0660
Fax: (202) 452-0081
E-mail: emjam@sysnet.net
No dog or cat shall be imported into Jamaica except such an animal was born and breed in Great Britain, Northern Ireland or the Republic of Ireland. This applies to Guide Dogs also. Dogs and Cats vaccinated against rabies are not allowed entry into Jamaica .


Immigration of pets MARTINIQUE
Cats and dogs over three months old are admitted temporarily with certificates of origin and good health (or anti-rabies inoculation), issued by a licensed veterinarian from the country of shipment.


Immigration of pets MONTSERRAT
Montserrat Tourism

Pets must have Veterinary Health certificates and inoculations records and will be quarantined between three to six months.



Immigration of pets NEVIS AND ST. KITTS
Click her for more information
about bringing your pet to Nevis and St.Kitts


Immigration of pets PUERTO RICO
The Commonwealth of Puerto Rico is a United States territory and requires that pets come with a current Veterinary Health Certificate (with a list of inoculations).


Immigration of pets ST. BARTS
Cats and dogs over three months old are admitted temporarily with certificates of origin and good health (or anti-rabies inoculation), issued by a licensed veterinarian from the country of shipment.


Immigration of pets ST. LUCIA
Embassy of St. Lucia
3216 New Mexico Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20016
(202) 364-6792
Fax: (202) 364-6723

Pets must have a Veterinary Import Permit before they may enter St. Lucia. This may be arranged for by contacting the Ministry of Agriculture’s Veterinary Department. They must also adhere to the following requirements:
• The cat/dog must be electronically identifiable by having had an acceptable type of microchip implanted. Microchips must conform to ISO standard 11784.
• The cat/dog must be vaccinated against rabies at or over three months of age using inactivated and adjuvant vaccine approved by the veterinary authority of the exporting country.
• A blood test must be carried out not less than 30 days after the date the vaccination was done.
• The blood sample must be sent to an approved laboratory facility. The veterinary authority of the exporting country must accredit the laboratory. In order to qualify for permission, the blood test must show rabies and antibody trait equal or more than 0.5 IU/ml.
• Once permission has been granted, the cat/dog would be able to travel into St Lucia, 180 days (6 months) after the date the blood sample was taken.
• The cat/dog must be treated no more than 48 hours before entry into St Lucia with a preparation for the treatment of ticks and fleas and with an anthelmintic preparation.


Immigration of pets ST.MARTIN
Import Regulations: Pets are admitted if they have the following documentation:

1. A current health certificate (this needs to be dated less than 10 days prior to departure)
2. The pet must have a rabies vaccination certificate that has been issued between 1 month and 12 months before entering St. Martin.


Immigration of pets ST. VINCENT
Summary of Requirements
The following protocols for exporting animals to St. Vincent are available through the International Regulations Retrieval System (IRRS):
Direct shipment of pets, dogs and cats, from the US to St. Vincent and the Grenadines is not permitted. Dogs and cats from the US first have to enter legally into the U.K. Once in the U.K. the owner of the pet has to request entrance into St. Vincent.

Embassy of St. Vincent and the Grenadines
3216 New Mexico Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20016
(202) 364-6730
Fax: (202) 364-6736

Pets from the UK, New Zealand and Australia are allowed into St. Vincent and The Grenadines on presentation of a health certificate to the government veterinary office. Pets from all other countries require a six-month quarantine. Pets can enter Vincentian waters on yachts, but must remain onboard at all times unless the above requirements are met.

Immigration of pets TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO

Click on these links for further information about bringing your pet into these countries, Trinidad and Tobago


Immigration of pets U.S VIRGIN ISLANDS
The US. Virgin Islands require a current Veterinary Health Certificate for your pet.

A Visitor's View of Dominica's Roads

OK. This picture is Bolivia, not Dominica. Our roads are not this bad. They just feel this bad.

We have had visitors who saw little of the island, as they focused only on the sheer drop outside the car window. Driving here is not for the faint of heart! The first time I drove across the Belles road on my own I felt like someone should throw me a party or give me a medal!

I loved this first impression of our roads:

"The one down side are the roads. My Lawd Gawd!!!!! Okay, I live in the U.S. which has large roads for large American cars. Even in Nigeria and the Ivory Coast (where I spent some years are nice paved (or potholed) roads that can take 2 cars going in either direction. Now, Dominica? That is a different matters. The roads look like they are for one car. We were speeding down twisting, winding roads when all of a sudden, a big pick up truck/lorry was coming towards us. My people, I screamed for Jesus! Can you believe that both vehicles managed to get by? I have never seen anything like this. I have told my husband that I would not mind retiring here. But the roads are enough to give me high blood pressure! Now Husband shouts 'Holy ghost fire' to mock me whenever a car is coming. Silly man.... LOL"

from IT WAS SO MUCH EASIER WHEN I ONLY HAD ONE

livingdominica: Here is my confession-- Mr. Wizard does most of the driving...

Dominica's Volcanoes

Dominica's Boiling Lake

The Dominican.net has a great article about our volcanoes. Read it here.

Earth and Stone Call to Me

For years I have been fascinated with alternative green building techniques. I'll bet I own the only set of video tapes on straw bale construction on the island of Dominica! When we lived in the states I had really wanted to build with straw bales, but alas, no straw is baled on this tropical island. So what is a woman craving green building to do? Stone and Earth.

I have been reading a series of interesting books about stone work and earth architecture. According to the various authors, even someone with limited building skills like the Wiz and I should be able to manage some sort of rudimentary structure. It helps a great deal that this climate does not require the complex attributes of a North American building. No insulation, no heat or central A/C. It is a simple place and buildings can be simple here also.

Stone, cob, earth bag. I learned today that over 1/3 of the earth's population live in earthen homes. Some very old multistory earth houses are still in use after centuries in Britain. Why, then, do we more commonly build soulless houses of plastic and toxic materials? Home building has been taken away from the owners of homes and given to professionals who tell us what we should want: an enormous house on land stripped of trees, quickly erected of material designed for making a series of boxes. Not lovely to my eyes.

I love the curves and hollows of organic material. Nothing pleases me more than the curve of a finely wrought stone wall. This is a sharp contrast to the concrete box houses more commonly built. I wonder why people build with concrete blocks when there is so much available stone. And people can build amazing houses with earth, like the cob house above. Within reach of the poorest land owner is a home which should last centuries and be beautiful as well.

There is a green architectural movement afoot empowering the poor to build sturdy, sustainable homes of low or no cost materials. I dream that perhaps Dominica may pick up the banner of sustainable architecture and lead the way in the green building revolution. I can imagine the people here all living in charming houses built of the Nature Island herself, at very little cost, instead of waiting until they can buy a few more blocks and bags of cement.

livingdominica: envisioning a day when all will have the home they desire.

Expat Culture Shock

Here is the article on culture shock I wrote for Escape Artist:

When my husband I and I began to plan our move from the Midwestern U.S. to Dominica in the West Indies, I read a couple of books on the topic of culture shock. I had experienced a mild case of this malady as a young American folksinger (remember folk music?) in Canada during the 70s. Back then Canadians were, very sensibly, suspicious of Americans. And Canada was just different enough from the U.S. that I was acutely aware of feeling like an outsider. I eventually began to feign a Canadian accent, and told people I was from Toronto. From that experience, I knew there would be adjustments and discomfort with a cross-cultural move. I suspected my earlier Canadian culture shock would pale compared to a move to Dominica. Yep, was I right!

The Honeymoon Phase
The experts on culture shock, who are hired by multinational corporations to help their workers with this issue, will tell you to expect a honeymoon phase. This was definitely true for Roger, my spouse, and me. We fell in love with Dominica like a pubescent boy falls in love with his buxom young teacher. All we could do was fantasize about her and do everything possible to spend every moment with her. Even when we moved here the pink cloud bliss continued for many months. All we saw was paradise through our rose colored glasses. “Ah,” I secretly thought to myself, “Dominica is so perfect for us we won’t have to deal with culture shock”. Those of us who move abroad often harbor a secret belief that life will be better when we move, and our initial elation only reinforces that belief.

Disintegration or the Irritability/Hostility Stage
And then it hit. The stage I dreaded arrived with a Thump! This, following a rapid fire series of unfortunate events, made me realize just how different this culture was from my expectations. Suddenly, I was in a spiral of uncertainty and negativity. I began to see everything through negative and pessimistic prisms, where once my rose colored glasses had been.

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I went to the Post Office one day to find a large pool of blood in the lobby from a stabbing during the night. The staff ignored it, opened the mailbox area in the morning and the public was required to walk through, or tiptoe around, this biohazard to check their mail. Events like these, coupled with some petty theft, and disappointments with individuals, marked my entry into the hostility stage.

I must add a caveat here: I am a person who experiences things very intensely, both good and bad. My hostility became a real difficulty. I could not utter a good word about my new home. I heard myself saying the same jaded expat phrases I had sworn I would never say. I began to speak cynically of my beloved island. I began to wonder if I had made a mistake in moving here. I bored my husband and friends to unconsciousness with my litanies of Dominica’s flaws. I looked for every opportunity to find something negative to add to my “Isn’t that awful” list.

It is difficult to reframe things more positively and find constructive solutions rather than wallowing in negativity. The smugly superior attitude of many worldwide expats became suddenly understandable to me. And many of us choose to stay in this stage. Does this lead to substance abuse found in expat communities internationally? I don’t know, but I see how easy it would be to stay stuck in these destructive attitudes.

Maybe this hostility is a result of leaving a place where negative aspects are oh so familiar, and therefore more easily dismissed. Suddenly, we are in a situation where it is hard to ignore negative things, because they are new and different. Our new culture is possibly no better or worse than the old one, but because it is new, the flaws are glaring. For instance, it is harder for me to ignore a Dominican picking her nose as she speaks to me, than it is to ignore the many American distasteful habits.

We grow up knowing how to manage problems in our own culture by watching others. It is second nature, learned at our mothers’ knees, like language. We know where we are safe and unsafe, what behaviors give offense, what behaviors are admired. We know what is expected of us, and what to expect of others. As a fledgling expat, I felt like I was attempting a “some assembly required” project with no instruction sheet. How do the pieces fit together here?

I have learned to say no to things which I never encountered at home. Some expat friends bought a house on Dominica, but the transaction was completed while they were in Europe. We took possession for them, and found a filthy mess left by the prior owner. I was helping to clean the house with another friend, when a local woman came into the house, uninvited, with her daughter. She had a look around, and sat down to watch me work. I said as kindly as possible, “If this were my house you would be welcome to stay, but as it is not my house, I cannot invite you.” They remained as I stood, confused about the right thing to do. I was about to say baldly, “You must leave”, when they left of their own accord.

Similarly, the 2 ½ year old from next door toddled over in his diaper, walked into the house and began to look about and play amid the clutter. After 30 minutes or so, the child’s mother appeared and walked in to address the child, “I didn’t know where you were, be sure to come home when you are done.” Mom turned, expecting to leave the child behind. One of us took the child by the hand, returning him to his mother. A necessary boundary was set about visiting.

These two events would never have occurred in the US, at least in my experience. No one walks into a house uninvited or sits down uninvited. No one lets their toddler wander unless they want to be charged with negligence by child protective agencies. When things like this occur I typically go blank and cannot figure out how to respond. I am gradually trying to become more assertive, but this is not easy for me. The first time I saw someone stand in my home talking with me and openly pick her nose, I was not able to say “would you mind doing that in the bathroom?” I am gradually learning to respect my own needs as well as others.

Roger gave offence to a Dominican when he responded on the telephone with “hello” rather than “good morning”. It seems one must strictly adhere to “good morning”, “good afternoon”, or “good evening” as a greeting. Sometimes it is very confusing to be a stranger in a strange land.

The culture shock issues are not only with the culture of Dominica, but also with expats from other cultures. Roger and I are very private people who value our alone time. We have expat friends who have very different needs and expectations. Dropping in without calling is acceptable to some expats we know, whereas we would rarely call on anyone without telephoning first. One expat friend walked into our house without calling out or honking his horn and caught me in my “knickers”. We now keep a lock on our gate so that we are not surprised.

My heritage is Southern U.S. where hospitality is a key virtue. Everyone who entered my mother’s door was pressed to stay for a meal. It is very uncomfortable for me to set boundaries with others when it comes to hospitality issues. As a result, I have found myself cooking for others when I wanted to do something else, and entertaining when I would rather be alone. Unfortunately, Roger is delighted to have me entertain rather single handedly on occasion. I am learning not to have such an open house.

We have learned that everything must be securely locked to avoid theft and everything must be spelled out to avoid misunderstanding. We left a Dominican friend to housesit for us while we visited Martinique. Although we locked our bedroom door before we left, we returned to find the door unlocked and evidence that our belongings had been explored. Nothing was missing, but our privacy was invaded. Locked doors don’t mean the same thing to everyone.

Adjustment Stage: Humor Returns with Sense of Balance
My sense of humor finally began to slowly ooze back into my life. I began once again to enjoy the surprises of Dominica: the stoned Rastafari who kisses me each time we meet, or the offers of marriage in the market. Having our auto mechanic shout out a greeting as his car passes us on the street makes me smile.

Living on such an amazingly beautiful island also soothes my negativity. I still have moments of frustration with island life and become unglued. Recently, I became miserable, cranky and ready to learn Spanish for the move to Costa Rica. But, we went up the hill and looked at the view we will one day enjoy from our own veranda. Mist covered mountains, sea, and a green, green valley. I became quiet. Ok. I'll stay on Dominica. This island is unbelievably gorgeous! It is enough to sap the evil out of me. Even me, on a bad day. It seems sometimes this island I love helps me to laugh at myself.

Adaptation Stage with a Sense of Belonging
Adaptation is an ongoing process, and as nature teaches us, we must adapt to survive! Integration and comfort with a different culture takes a long time and probably never completely occurs. Dominicans will always call us “strangers” and we will never be seen as Dominican. Recently, we went for a mineral bath at a place known as Screw’s. Screw had a good laugh when we called ourselves “locals” and asked for the local rate. He gave us the lower rate, but it is clear we will never really be locals.

A similar, but much more serious example of permanent outsider status is the situation of an expat doctor. He and his wife have lived here more than 25 years as citizens. They raised their children here. Still, he remains enough of an outsider that he was passed over for positions in favor of native born Dominicans.

So I never expect to fully integrate. But slowly, as I steep in the culture of my new home, I take on its flavor and learn to savor those flavors. As I understand Dominica’s peculiarities, I begin, in some indefinable way, to become more Dominican and less American. But, as I said, this is a slow, slow process.

Re-entry shock
Many expats do not survive the hostility phase, and hastily repatriate home. There, further difficulty awaits. Unbeknownst, home does change while we are abroad, and now adjustments to these changes must occur. The returning expat does not find the cozy, warm return to the familiar he longs for. Things are different. Not only is home different, but he is different. All of those negative parts of home, which were easily ignored when they were familiar, are now acutely obvious and grating to the returnee. So the poor expat finds himself once again struggling to adjust. Repatriation culture shock often occurs. The grass is really not greener back home.
When discussing a move abroad any intrepid expat will tell you, “It ain’t easy”. Many will say, “Don’t do it!” If you are reluctant to learn a new way of living, I would agree. Don’t do it. Living abroad is very different from vacationing in that same place. But I would be quick to add: “Try it, if...” If you can live without the familiar comforts of home. If you bring your best friend with you who wants the move as much as you do. If you think you might feel less of an outsider in a foreign land than in your own. If you are prepared to cope with the culture shock that is probably inevitable.

But remember when deciding, the world you leave behind will change and you will too. Thomas Wolfe was right. You can’t go home again.

Living Past One Hundred on Dominica

Portrait of Ma Pampo by Powys Dewhurst


"It’s no secret.
You take fresh foods, clean water, pure air and lots of exercise. You add low stress, a loving family and strong belief in God. For Dominica’s centenarians, it all adds up to a longer and healthier Life." Or so says the Pan American Health Organization in their article about long lived Dominicans.

I am not sure what accounts for the longevity observed on Dominica, but this island is known for long years and good health into old age. Ma Pampo was 128 when she died!

Could it be because Dominica herself is alive? Beneath her fertile soil burns the largest concentration of volcanoes anywhere on earth. She is home to a lake which boils and hot spring mineral baths. Gases from a volcano bubbling at the ocean's edge creates the "Champagne", which attracts both tropical fish and snorkelers.

The living fertility of this island provides foods rich in nourishment, unlike tired factory farmed produce fertilized with three chemicals. Locals on Dominica eat food fresh from the garden, not picked green and shipped for days to consumers. Picking oranges or grapefruit in the garden warm from the sun, and squeezing fresh juice, I can taste the rich, living island in each mouthful.

Dominica's air is also amazing. A rainforested island, her winds are scrubbed clean by the Atlantic, then oxygenated by the dense foliage. I imagine being healed of the years of living in St. Louis during Ozone Warnings when, "People with respiratory problems should stay indoors".
I mean, don't we ALL have a respiratory problem if the air outdoors warrants warnings?

(I must admit Roseau can give me a headache, probably from concentrated pollution. But I avoid Roseau whenever possible.)

Do I expect to live as long as Ma Pampo? No, I don't. I do know I feel better here than anywhere else on earth. I feel truly alive here on this enchanting island.

Here is a directory of the Centenarians on Dominica.

livingdominica: I do so love that picture of Ma Pampo...